Ask The Expert
Our knowledgeable staff here at Garden-Ville are available to answer many of the questions you might have about gardens, landscaping, and trees. Many problems with plants, however, cannot be responsibly diagnosed other than in person. We're located in central Texas and may not be familiar with the details of gardening in very different climate or soil zones. One of the guiding principles of organic growing is adapting methods to the particularites of local soil and climate. With that in mind we'll do our best to answer your question, but if we can't we'll be happy to help you find the appropriate resources or professionals in your area.
Feel free to browse the topics below to see if we've already answered a question similar to yours. If you can't find the information you need, the question submission form is located at the bottom of the page.
Just recently put tif-419 sod and quickly got overrun with sod web worms got that under control but have a lot of dead spots. what should i do about the dead areas? will it fill back in ? do i need to replace the dead areas with new sod?
10/3/20083:02:37 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Your sod will fill back in. How long it takes will depend on how large the dead spots are. Any spots the size of a sod square or smaller probably aren't worth re-sodding. Anything significantly larger than that may take more than a season to fill in completely, so you might want to stick a new square in the middle of those areas to fill it in faster. The best way to encourage the lawn to fill in quickly is to keep it healthy. We recommend spreading a 1/2" layer of organic compost over the entire lawn area right now (during the fall) to promote a healthy lawn the following year. This increases organic material in the lawn, provides essential nutrients, builds soil, and reduces watering requirements because the soil has more water retaining capacity.
What is the best thing to lay down before laying 419 bermuda sod?
9/29/20083:26:32 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Bermuda Grass, Compost, Lawn Questions
Before laying down sod I recommend a thin layer of compost. Our Garden-Ville compost is composted wood chips and bio-solids. Spread 1/2" to 1" of this before laying your sod squares. Also mix in Rock Phosphate at 10 pounds per 1000 square feet along with Texas Greensand. This will provide all the nutrients your grass requires for healthy growth.
a couple of weeks ago my brother mowed my mothers st. augustin the next day or so it began to brown in a circle, the next day the circle was bigger, and then after 10 days the whole back yard was dead. Same in the front yard. This happened before in the drought two years ago. We replaced it now we are right back in the same situatiion. The way the grass dies out is hard to graps since it happens so fast. David
8/28/20084:10:23 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Sounds like you have take all patch which is a soil borne fungal disease, before you plant new grass I would suggest tilling in about two inches of compost over the entire area and treating the yard with a fungicide to take care of the problem in the soil, the following spring till in more compost (about one inch over the entire area) and plant the sod.
I live in Dallas, and bought a new home with little/no lawn care (empty home for 18 months). There are lots of dandelion weeds, among a few other weeds. I put down weed n feed in March, but nothing since (just weekly deep watering). I have seen a lot of experts recommend aerating the lawn and applying a 1/2" layer of compost and fertilize the yard with a good slow release organic fertilizer like your Premium Lawn Fertilizer 7-2-2. When is the 'wrong' time to do this? How often should I do this? I'm curious about the right way to do this process.
7/22/20083:23:43 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Right now it is too hot to apply compost, around September/October when the weather starts to cool off would be the right time to aerate and compost the lawn. If you want to feed the lawn right now you can spread the 7-2-2 fertilizer and water it in with Medina Soil Activator, those two products together will stimulate any microbial activity in the soil. Since you have a weed problem in your lawn I would also suggest applying corn gluten meal in the fall and next spring to keep any other weed seeds from germinating. Keep the lawn on your deep watering schedule and pull the established weeds in your lawn throughout the summer to prevent the already stressed lawn from getting any worse.
I have Tiff Bermuda and it was gorgeous last spring/summer. However, it is extremely slow in turning green this year. It has patches of green, but a large percentage of it is light brown. I have been told by a local lawn specialist that the soil temp needs to be at 65 or above for 8-10 days before it will green up. He checked the roots and said they are healthy and assures me that is not dead and will come back. He took a soil sample to run it through the lab. I am waiting on the results of that test. The temps have been in the high 80's and low 90's during the day for a couple of weeks. Shouldn't my bermuda have greened up by now? Is there anything I can do to help my lawn turn green?
6/3/20084:55:46 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Compost, Fertilizer, Lawn Questions
You can add a high nitrogen slow release organic fertilizer and spread a half inch layer of compost on the lawn, those two products will help the grass come out of dormancy. Keep in mind that until the summer hits full force the night time temperatures will generally stay lower than 80 degrees which might hinder the grass coming out.
I planted a new Sand Cherry tree for my wife a few days before mothers day 2008, And now the leaves are folding up,Is this mean that the tree is sick? we have had alot of rain. I don't know that much about new trees! Can you help me please
6/3/20084:52:02 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
It sounds to me that the soil might not be draining well enough for the tree, the sandcherry requires a well drained soil and full sun to survive. If you have a heavy clay soil you might want to dig the tree up and amend the soil around it with a sand and compost mixture to break the soil up.Hi I live in Copperas Cove Tx, all the grass in my yard is bermuda grass, this year some of the grass died. I have a lot of weeds and a grass with long roots that I have to dig up with a pick in order to get rid of it, it will grow from pieces of it's root, don't know what type of grass it is.I used weed killer for the weeds, but this weed killer will not kill this grass . the only thing will kill this grass is grass killer, but I cannot use it because this grass is growing between the bermuda grass and I don't want to kill the bermuda .I notice a lot of green moss all over the yard even in places where the water runs off easily. How can I get rid of the moss and that ugly grass. Terrence
6/3/20084:51:31 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Bermuda Grass, Compost, Corn meal
You will need to build the health of the soil up to get your lawn back in shape, spot treat the yard with Natural Weed Control to kill off any unwanted grasses or weeds. After the weeds are dead aerate the lawn and spread a half inch thick layer of compost over the entire yard and follow up with a good organic fertilizer mixed with Bermuda seed. When the fall comes around broadcast a pre-emergent like corn gluten meal to keep any dormant weed seeds from germinating. Repeat the aeration and composting process as well as applying the pre-emergent for the next year or two and the Bermuda should take over the yard.
I'm putting in grass in..do I need to put down compost and till it in before either seed or sod?
6/3/20084:48:50 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
It would benefit the grass you are planting to till in compost, tilling in the compost will increase the nutrients and organic matter in the soil as well as help with moisture retention.
I live in Longview, East Texas, I have a centepede yard, about 1,000 sq ft that is covered with take-all-patch. I have not used the organic method of yard care but am starting this year. What would be your suggestion for treating my yard and getting it back into shape once again? What compost would you suggest I use in that I am not close to one of your stores. The recommended treatment up to this point has been fall treatment of peat moss and spring treatment of fundcide which obviously has not been successful and appears to me has made it worse Your help would be appreciated.
6/3/20084:46:47 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
You will need to aerate and spread horticultural corn meal and compost on the lawn, any type of compost on the yard will do the trick, just make sure that the compost is cooked correctly or the ammonia content will kill off the grass. Repeat the process in the fall of this year and the spring of next year, the compost and corn meal will attack the fungus that is in the soil and will also build up the strength of the soil in the process.
I hope you can help me. My husband and I live near Converse, TX where the soil is extremely hard with rocks and clay. We want to start decorative flower beds in our front and back yards. We have existing grass in both areas. Since we both have bad backs and bad knees, physically removing the grass isn't really an option. We need a way of killing the grass that will not affect future plantings. Please, what would you suggest?
6/3/20084:44:31 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Spray Natural Weed Control on the grass and wait for about a week and spray again if any grass is still alive, spread a 2-3" layer of compost on the areas you want the beds and till the dead grass and compost into the soil. A to Z rentals on FM 78 or North East Rentals on Nacogdoches Road rents out a "mantis" tiller that would be perfect for your situation, they are light weight and easy to maneuver.Last summer, I put down 4 pallates of JaMur sod grass, but did not have enough to complete my back yard. The vendor that supplys the JaMur stopped harvesting it shortly after my sod job, therefore a large portion of my backyard did not get sodded. I recently acquired 2 more pallates to complete the job. Some portions of the area I just sodded had sections of JaMur and Bermuda already growing, and I just layed the new JaMur sod on top of it. Do you think it will still grow? Please advise.
6/3/20084:43:27 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Bermuda is a very invasive grass, it will more than likely grow through the JaMur. If you do not want the Bermuda to grow though the JaMur you will need to kill it off using a natural herbicide like 20% vinegar. Be sure and only spray the grass you want to get rid of as the vinegar is a non selective herbicide. Once the grass is dead (1 to 2 days) spread compost over the area and plant your sod squares.
Hi Amy! We live on Lake Travis in Texas and have a terrible time with the burrs in our grass. They are so painful! Do you have any ideas how we can get our yard to be burr free? Where do they even come from? Thanks!
5/12/200812:35:01 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Burrs are generally a product of poor soil health, the first thing you need to do is get rid of the burrs in the grass. The best way to remove them is to get an old wool or woven blanket and drag it across the grass, the blanket should grab all of the burrs it comes in contact with. Next you will want to spread out a pre-emergent like corn gluten meal, this will prevent any future seeds from germinating. The next step is to build the health of your soil, the way to do that is core aeration followed by a half inch application of compost and a good organic fertilizer.
We moved into our new home in August, and have new carpet grass. The dirt in our yard is black gumbo with clay. When I water the lawn ...it takes awhile for it to soak in. Should I use the manure compost or the premium compost to spread on our lawn, and will this really loosen the soil? Thanks! Dolores
4/8/200810:14:12 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Dolores,Since you have a clay soil it would not hurt to apply compost twice a year for the next couple of years. Over time the compost will help to loosen the soil, you can also spray the soil with Medina Soil Activator to help break up the soil. Don't forget your spring fertilizer application when you compost.I LIVE IN SOUTH TEXAS DOWN BY MCALLEN HAVE 1 ACRE AND I BURNED THE YARD WITH A WEED AND FEED. SHOULD I USE COMPOST AND WATER IT WELL?
3/17/200811:13:04 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Esmer,Yes adding a 1/2" layer of compost will help rejuvenate the soil by adding the organic matter and microbes into the soil. Follow up with an application of our Premium Lawn Fertilizer 7-2-2 and water it in with Medina's Soil Activator and you should see results. If the yard is totally gone then you will want to either lay new sod or broadcast seed to start the lawn off this spring.Hello Amy, I have a few questions for you... #1 I would like to know if the North East side of my home that gets plenty of sun would be an ideal place to till up a vegetable/flower garden? #2 Also, I am very concerned about crop rotation, and all of the issues of depleting the soil, and diseases staying in the soil. Anyway, I read something about adding a solution of bleach to water and spraying the garden area to kill any diseases in the soil. Is this considered a natural/organic method? If not, do you have any ideas as to how I can, when the time comes next year, to keep from being concerned about crop rotation and the problems there are when it is done incorrectly. I look forward to reading your response. Thank you, Tracy Burton, Texas
3/3/20083:52:24 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Tracy,Yes a full sun area is a good place to install a garden, when you till the soil don't forget to till in compost and fertilizer to give the plants a good healthy soil to start in. When rotating crops it is always good to till the left over plant matter into the soil to give back the organic matter that was lost in the growing season. I would not recommend spraying bleach on any soil, instead every year mix compost into the soil to build the health of the soil. If you have any other questions please let me know.I do high pile (6'), high heat composting. I neglected to turn my pile for a while and it went cold and stayed cold, after a few months i came back and turned it in the hopes that the air-ation would spark microbe activityand it would heat up again and get back to composting. However it has now been 2 weeks and the core temp has not gone above 60 on warm days (60's) or below 50 on cool days (30's). What can i do to get this unfinished pile cooking again ? Oh by the way i'm certified organic so keep that it mind. Thanks, Scott
2/26/200811:49:38 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Scott,Is the temperature measurement Fahrenheit or Celsius? Bat Guano, manure, and molasses are good ways to feed the microbes in the compost pile, check your moisture level in the pile if it is too dry composting will not occur, add water and one of the mentioned above to the pile and turn once more. About a week after amending the pile and turning check the temperature, ideal composting temperature will be 55 degrees Celsius or 131 degrees Fahrenheit.Hello I have a great leaf collection system on my mower and a hickory grove that I can gather the leaves that have fallen. I am wondering if there is a concern with hickory leaves like that of walnut tree leaves. I would like to use the leaves as a mulch next spring in the asparagus bed. Thank you, Rita
10/30/20071:17:25 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Rita,I have not heard anything bad about using the hickory leaves as a mulch. But to be on the safe side you might want to either compost the leaves or mix the existing leaves with compost at a rate of 3 parts leaves to 1 part compost. Composting the leaves will cook out any chemicals that might be in the leaves to suppress growth in plants.I'm trying to get control of the mulberry seedlings that keep growing in my yard. I read on some other sites that there are some Ortho products that can be used to inject into the roots, but I wanted to check with you guys to see what safer products or methods you would recommend. Thanks, Brian
10/30/20071:16:28 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Organically the only suggestion I can make is to mow over the area and spot treat the growth with 20% Vinegar, once the plants are dead you will want to go over the area with compost to help the grass get back to good health. As a preventative twice a year spread corn gluten meal around the tree at a rate of 10# per 500 square feet to keep the seedlings from germinating.
Hello. I've gotten advice from you in the past on what to do for roses. It's helped out. But this year, it's not been good for the roses. We inherited a bunch of rose bushes and a few trees and vines when we bought our house a year ago in Cedar Park. They're all in the ground (a couple in whiskey barrels). I've been told I have a green thumb, but I've had at least seven of them die since we moved in. So I've met my match with roses, and can verify I, indeed do not have a green thumb at least with roses. We planted a native/adapted plant landscape garden in San Antonio and never had problems with it. I trimmed when necessary and fertilized at the beginning of the season with a liquid fertilizer, then as needed during the growing season. I watered every week or two during the hottest, driest weather, and got nice comments from our neighbors and how nice our yard looked. I guess I got spoiled. Don't get me wrong, we get really nice comments from everyone who visits our house about how beautiful the yard looks with the roses and other plants out there. I'm just having problems keeping some of them nice. New growth comes out, then it sometimes shrivels later. Then canes start dying. I've used Rose Defense, Potassium Bicarbonate, Rose Food from Gardenville, Soil Food from Gardenville, have composted mulch on them, etc. It tends to work in the short term, but eventually, they go back to looking diseased. I feel like I've done all I can with them. I have a feeling they've been too wet this year. So I'm letting them dry out some while we have this dry, warm spell. They seem to do better in the hotter, drier weather with periodic watering, rather than a constant soaking. I'm trying to stick to the organic route. That's not easy. But since we have a dog, and I don't like to mess with chemicals if I don't have to, I think it's safer. Anyway, if you have any other suggestions from an organic standpoint, please let me know. Thanks. Sincerely, David Cullen
10/9/200710:34:43 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
David,You might want to try and acidify the soil around the roses. Our soil here in South Texas is an alkaline soil. One way to change the ph of the soil is to add a 2" layer of compost around the plants and mulch with a pine bark mulch. That should drop the ph of the soil and help the roses out. You also might want to take a gallon sample of the soil around the plants and send it off for analysis. You can go to http://www.txplant-soillab.com/, and get the details on a standard topsoil analysis. Let me know if you have any other questions.I have land in Atascosa county. It is very sandy but, has some coastal grass growing. In the past I've used it for cattle grazing. It's had no chemical fertilizers in over 10 years. Now I'd like use it for cattle and only want to use organics on it. I like to plant about 3-4 acres of hay grazer or oats. What do you recocmmend to go organic? I've seen the bennefits of organics at home and would like to continue at the farm.
7/23/200711:03:23 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
You absolutely cannot go wrong with using compost. It enriches the soil and replenishes the nutrients that are lost from years of growing and grazing. Garden-Ville offers a compost that is inexpensive and can be spread with a manure spreader. Our Premium Compost is made from composted biosolids from the San Antonio Water Systems' plant located on the south side of San Antonio. If you would like pricing and delivery options, please feel free to call our San Antonio Bulk Sales Representative, Mike Conner, at 210-279-0154.
I am building a home on a newly purchased lot (about 5 months from completion) and I would like to prepare my soil for organic vegetation. What would you recommend as the steps I need to take to start a new lawn essentially from scratch. Here is a brief summary of my land. Currently, I have black clays and ground cover consist of what appears to be wild grass as well as some mature oaks, Mt Laurels, and hackberry trees. I have about 4 acres, with about 2 acres in a drainage easement. Clays appear to sustain growth of the groundcover quite well as I initially had it dozed for building in Feb 07 and I greenery everywhere now. I had the unwanted trees/shrubs pushed into piles that I do plan to grind and spread over the area of my property that sits in the drainage easement to reduce weed growth.
5/21/200710:36:46 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
If the soil you have is healthy I would just amend it with a little compost (about 1-2”) and fertilize the grass (when it is laid) with our Premium Soil Food 7-2-2. After the trees are ground you might want to keep some of that mulch aside for any beds that you may make around the house. You are on the right track to a healthy organic based yard and if you have any other questions please let me know.
I live in stoneoaks area and have St Augustine for my lawn. My land has a steep gradient. I apply Scotts fertilizer twice a year and water the lawn 2 to 3 times a week. My lawn however has a lot of patches of thaw (dry grass). I am told by my neighbor that the lawn needs a top dressing. Please advise if this is correct and if so - what do I use for top dressing and - where do I get it - how do I apply Thanks in advance
5/8/200711:04:01 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
If you have a ½” layer of compost spread on the grass and follow that up with a good organic fertilizer your grass will start to show improvement within a couple of days. The compost will add the organic matter that erosion and chemical fertilizers have diminished over time, as well as cook the thatch that develops when you do not bag the grass clippings. The organic fertilizer will feed the beneficial microorganisms so they can start building up the health of the soil. Another thing you may want to look in to is aeration, by aerating the lawn you are allowing the compost and fertilizer to get deep into the soil where the roots are. You can pick up the compost and fertilizer at any Garden-Ville location or if you do not have a truck you can have it delivered through our delivery service.
We have an acre lot southwest of San Antonio, Texas with a poor soil and a rich supply of grassburs. I know D Dr. says build up the soil to discourage the burs. We are on a limited income. What do you stock that we need for this problem. I have a p/u so I can haul materials if I could get them in bulk quantities and maybe be more economical. How long would it take to grow a blackeye pea crop on the garden area and till it in to enrich the soil there. Would it help that much anyway? Jim Russell ( a devoted Dirt Dr. fan.
5/3/20073:25:17 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
The answer to poor soil conditions is compost. Garden-Ville has a production facility over at the SAWS water treatment facility located on the south side of San Antonio. There we produce a great inexpensive compost that will do wonders for soil conditioning, how much area are you looking to condition? We offer a delivery service and can carry up to 15 cubic yards in a single load. The black eyed pea will set pods at 60 days and mature between 90-100 days, so realistically bringing in compost to condition the soil might cost a little more but it would give faster results than growing the peas and tilling them in. To further prevent the grass burs spread out corn gluten meal in the fall and spring as a pre-emergent to keep the seeds of the burrs from growing (just be careful that you are not growing anything else from seed when you apply the corn gluten meal as it will keep them from germinating also). If you would like pricing and delivery cost to your home let me know and I will dig up some information for you.My home/yard in Prosper,TX is 3 years old and the soil is black clay. In March when digging about 1 foot down to move sprinkler lines I didn't see any earthworms. I've read they don't like clay and die out in the heat of summer. Could it be that coupled with the drought of last year, when I basically gave up watering my bermuda backyard,is the reason i'm not seeing any worms even with the good rain we had this winter? Would you recommend I buy some and spread them around the yard or facing a continuing drought would it be a waste of time? Is there a treatment to break up the clay that can be spread on the lawn to help the earthworms? Thankyou for your help. Terry
4/17/200710:53:34 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Compost, Lawn Questions, Soil Questions
Terry,Yes I would agree with you that with the drought and lack of watering to the soil the worms left and looked for soil that is cool and moist. You can release earthworms into your soil, but before you go through that you will want to amend the clay soil with compost to enrich and break up the soil. The compost will also help the soil retain water when the drought time comes. Spread a 1/2" thick layer of compost over the yard using the back side of a metal rake and water it in. If you do that once in the spring and once in the fall the condition of your soil will increase and the earth worms will start to come back. Using "organic" fertilizers along with the compost will also give the worms a good place to come back to since there will not be a lot of salt residue in the soil.Questions & Comments: I cannot make up my mind about core aeration. I have read so many pros and cons. Please help me. My yard is about 7,000 sq ft of turf with 8 matures pecan trees around back and side and two large oak trees in front. Will aeration hurt my trees roots. Can I compost without aeration and get a good result? Thanks.
4/17/200710:51:34 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
You can apply compost without aeration and it will be beneficial to your yard. The main reason why people aerate their yard is to break up the hard ground to help the compost get into the soil. If your yard is full of trees then it probably would not be a good idea to aerate. A good compost to use would be the Premium Compost, it is a great compost for yards that has nitrogen and other trace minerals. When you apply the compost don't forget to broadcast a good organic fertilizer like Garden-Ville's Premium Lawn Food 7-2-2.
I live in San Antonio Texas and I am having a "top dressing" applied to my yard next week. Should I apply corn gluten meal prior to this application?
3/26/20073:17:49 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Yes, it would be good for you to add the corn gluten meal prior to the compost application. If the company is not already going to add a fertilizer you might want to apply it before they come in.
I am looking for a good inexpensive organic fertilizer for my ranch. We have one-12 acre costal field that needs some good fertilizer and we have other pastures that could also stand some attention. Do you have any recommendations and sources? Thanks, Gary
3/26/20073:16:14 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
You can use compost, dried molasses, or we have a fertilizer that comes in a 40# bag and will cover 4000 sq feet per application. For the compost you will need about 800 yards and the price per cubic yard for that would be $11 plus delivery. For the fertilizer you would need 132 bags and the cost for that would be $9.25 per bag. The benefits of the compost are the addition of beneficial microbes for soil conditioning and trace mineral nutrients as well as nitrogen. With the fertilizer you will get your NPK but not the soil conditioning benefits of the compost. All products listed are produced by Garden-Ville and can be picked up or delivered to you. Where is the ranch located?When is the best time to add compost to my St Augustine lawn? And when is the best time to apply beneficial nematodes for grub control?
3/19/20074:28:56 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
The best time to add compost to your yard is in the spring and fall, the best time to add nematodes is when your soil is still wet. You need to make sure that the soil does not dry out this summer, adding the compost will help keep the soil temperatures down and the moisture in.
I'm looking for a vegetation based compost to apply in a vegetable garden with sub-surface harvested parts (carrots, turnips and beets) as well as above-the-ground harvested plants (letuces, etc). Are there recommended composts for this tye of garden?
3/14/20074:50:02 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
If you are in the Austin area we have a product called TOP Compost. It is a vegetation based compost that we offer in bulk.
When spreading compost in my yard at 1/2" to help the soil, do I need to cut it in or just let it settle in on its own? And should I aerate first? Thanks Sean
2/28/200710:42:21 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Yes you should aerate before laying the compost down. When you are applying the compost work it between the grass blades with the back side of a rake to help it get to the soil.
I have a puuting green that is overseeded with winter rye grass. In the spring I want to re-seed it with Riviera bermuda for easier management. What would be your suggestion for this procedure, areating verticutting?? and what would be the best way to appliy the seed?? I do not like the idea of using herbicide to kill out the winter rye, heavier verticutting and more seed are my possible solution. Thanks
2/27/20076:16:12 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
I would recommend that you aerate the surface, spread a ¼” thick layer of compost and seed with your choice of seed. The winter rye will die off when the weather gets too warm.
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