Ask The Expert
Our knowledgeable staff here at Garden-Ville are available to answer many of the questions you might have about gardens, landscaping, and trees. Many problems with plants, however, cannot be responsibly diagnosed other than in person. We're located in central Texas and may not be familiar with the details of gardening in very different climate or soil zones. One of the guiding principles of organic growing is adapting methods to the particularites of local soil and climate. With that in mind we'll do our best to answer your question, but if we can't we'll be happy to help you find the appropriate resources or professionals in your area.
Feel free to browse the topics below to see if we've already answered a question similar to yours. If you can't find the information you need, the question submission form is located at the bottom of the page.
I have a problem with stickers.soil here is very sandy. Ive tried msma, which we know is a very strong and i feel leary of using this herbicide ..i have dogs and cats not to mention you cant use this stuff around any gardening. So how can i get rid of these stickers ? Bermuda grass is what i have here..HELP ! :)
10/29/20089:07:37 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Organic control of weeds that are grown up in an existing lawn is pretty tricky because organic herbicides are non-selective, which means they kill everything green that they touch. Here's what I would recommend.First, areas of the lawn that are more weed than grass I would spray with our Natural Weed Control or a commercial strength Vingegar. This will kill grass as well as weeds, and it may take a couple of applications to fully kill the weeds. If you don't want to lose any grass you can skip this step, although remember that the grass will grow back, while the weeds won't.The next thing is to take a blanket and drag it back and forth over the lawn. Strange as this sounds, its an effective way of picking up most of the stickers, which are the seeds that the weeds use to propagate. I'd use an old blanket or sheet that you can then throw away, as the blanket will likely be more covered in stickers than you'll want to pick out.Next apply corn gluten meal (not regular corn meal) at a rate of 20 pounds per 1000 square feet. This is an organic pre-emergent herbicide, which means it kills germinating seeds but doesn't harm anything else. Once you've spread the corn gluten meal water fairly heavily. This will disperse the meal and prompt the remaining stickers to germinate, at which time they'll be killed by the meal.Finally, top dress the lawn with compost at a rate of 1/4" to 1/2". This will build the soil and encourage a thicker lawn that will help to out-compete weeds. This treatment may not eliminate stickers in the first year, but it will make a dramatic difference, and over a couple of years it should control the problem. As an additional benefit it will result in a much healthier lawn apart from taking care of the stickers.I have giant live oaks which give us dappled sunlight. Can we plant zoysia grass? If not would there be anything we could plant that the kids could play on?
10/29/20088:45:19 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Zyosia can't take more than 30% shade, so I wouldn't recommend it under your trees. St. Augustine is the best shade tolerant grass. We also recommend maintaining a band of mulch around the trunk of the tree of at least a few feet. This protects the trunk against damage from lawn equipment.
I live in Lincoln Ca my lawn has brown rings which I believe is brown patch. I have purchased lawn disease (Immuniox Sysmatic)which kills all major lawn disease. My questions is can or should I fertilize (if so what type) the lawn as well or just keep applying the lawn disease agent.
10/29/20088:37:34 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
I wouldn't fertilize right now while. While the grass is diseased it may not be able to take the fertilizer. What I would do is top dress with a half inch of compost. This will provide slow release nutrients to the lawn while building the soil and making the lawn more tolerant of drought and heat. This will make it more healthy for the future and less likely to exhibit problems with disease.
My St. Augustine grass took on about 6' of salt water due to Hurricane Ike on 9-13-08. I could not get any water on it for about 20 days but since I have been able to water it seems to be coming back. What else should I be doing to help with this salt water bath.
10/29/20088:31:01 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
St. Augustine is a coastal grass, so its more salt tolerant than others. If it hasn't shown damage yet it should be fine, as far as salt goes. The one thing to be concerned about is that the soil has probably been leached of most of its nutrients, which could give you problems next year. I'd recommend putting down a good micronutrient source. Our Volcanite would be a good choice; Medina has a micronutrient package that would be good as well. On top of that top dress with about a half inch of compost. This will replace the lost nutrients and build the soil.
I have been given some mixed ideas that soil amendments will take care of a great deal of the thatch in my yard. Do I steal need to dethatch or can i save money by using a rapid soil amendment ? I have about 2 inchs of thatch.
10/28/20088:52:11 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Appropriate soil amendments will break down thatch. It's hard to say for sure how long it will take, though. It depends a lot on your particular situation. Anything that feeds soil microorganisms will helps. I would recommend top dressing with compost, which is also good for the grass. Molasses also is a good way to stimulate microorganisms.
Hi I live in Indio Ca My question is about my winter grass. I have spots where it didnt grow. do i put eed with fertilizer on it and if so how do I do it?
10/28/20088:37:48 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
It depends on why the grass didn't grow in some areas of the yard. If you have a turf grass like St. Augustine or Bermuda it will eventually spread into surrounding areas, unless there's something wrong with those areas. Are they lower than other areas? Poor drainage? You might want to add soil to those areas. If it looks more like it was poor seed distribution, then re-seeding would be appropriate. A very thin layer (1/4"-1/2") of compost applied at the same time would be helpful to establishing the grass.
Hi, I have a cedar elm tree it was planted approx. 18 months ago. its aprox. 8-10ft tall with not many green leaves. the leaves are maybe 2-3 in long but i noticed the tips are brown and some of the leaves are brown. The tree was planted when i purchased my home and its planted on the northside of my home. is the brown leaves normal for a young tree ? Should i fertilize? if so, what would you recommend? i recently placed mulch around the tree. Thanks....
10/28/20088:26:30 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Leaf browning is normal for cedar elms this time of year. They're getting ready to drop for the winter. Unless the leaves have been brown all summer it isn't anything to worry about. And I would definitely not fertilize right now. Wait until the tree is fully dormant--December or January.Two years ago I bought a home with 2 pecan trees in the back yard. Both years the trees have produced a lot of pecans but they are all rotten . What is wrong and what can I do. I believe the trees are about 12 years old. Thanks
10/25/20084:10:57 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
This is a pretty common problem for pecans. I expect the problem is nutrient deficiencies. If you want reliable nut production I'd recommend following an organic fertilization program. The following program is from Texas Organic Vegetable Gardening by Howard Garrett and Malcolm Beck.
In early February, 20 pounds any standard organic fertilizer per 1000 square feet. Lava sand at 80 pounds per square feet. Sugar at 2-5 pounds per square feet.
In early June, 20 pounds organic fertilizer per 1000 square feet. Greensand at 80 pounds per 1000.
In early September, 20 pounds organic fert per 1000. Sul-Po-Mag at 20 pounds per 1000.
Try this for a year and see what results you get.I live in New Orleans and am a gardener at a public school. We planted about a dozen citrus trees in April and they look terrible. The limbs are drooping over and the leaves are curled. They were planted straight into pumped river sand which most likely has something to do with why they look so bad. The river sand holds water unlike regular sand. Do you have any suggestions as to how we can save our citrus? Could we transplant? They are between 2 and 4 years old. Thank you!
10/25/200811:58:22 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
It sounds like the river sand could be the problem. How often have you been watering them, and how long does the soil stay wet after you do? If the soil is the issue I'd recommend transplanting as your best bet for saving them. You can do some things to prolong the life of a tree in extremely poor soil conditions, but it's still going to die prematurely. Since they're still young transplanting has a good chance of success. Transplant into an area with a lighter, better draining soil. Also check the depth at which they are/will be planted. The soil should be at the level of the top of the root flare. This is important for all trees, but especially for citrus, which are usually grafted. Citrus can also do well in large pots--lots of people here in central Texas keep citrus in 30-40 gallon pots so they can drag them inside before it freezes. Depending on the condition of the soil there at the school that may be an option to look at.
Will plain corn meal have the same or similar effect on grass seeds or any other positive effect on lawn grasses.
10/25/200811:21:01 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Corn gluten meal is a preemergent herbicide that will prevent any kind of seed (grass, weed, or otherwise) from germinating. Corn meal itself is a fungicide, which can be very helpful for lawns, but will not kill seeds of any kind.
I have a large back yard that is nothing but dirt, stickers and tumbleweeds. Since I live in NM I was wondering if it's possible to lay down a weed barrier after cleaning the weeds and then laying sod? I really want a beautiful grassy yard for my children and ourselves. Please help me as to what I can do to get a yard this coming spring. I'm not a green thumb and have no plants or trees or anything.
10/25/200811:10:23 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
If you are putting down sod you won't need to put down weed barrier. The sod is thick enough to keep anything from gowing up through it. Check the soil depth in the yard--we recommend at least 4 inches of soil for a healthy lawn, and if you currently have only weeds it may be a sign of poor or thin soil. It will likely be a good idea to put down at least an inch, regardless. Two might be better depending on the condition of your soil.The single most important decision you will make is the variety of grass you put in. Look for a drought and heat tolerant turf grass. St. Augustine is out. It requires a lot of water and is prone to disease. You'll be fighting to keep it healthy for as long as you have it. Buffalo grass is a good choice for drier areas. There are several different varieties. Check with a local grass farm or lawn service to see what turf grasses fare best in your area.Whenever you put the lawn in we recommend putting down a thin layer of compost as well as an organic lawn fertilizer. We recommend waiting until after you're last frost date in the spring before putting in the lawn--if you try it right now it won't get established before winter. Keep it well watered while its getting established. Top dress the lawn with compost every fall for consistently healthy grass.I live in the Atlanta, GA suburbs, and I have a yellow poplar in my front yard that has been dropping brown leaves all summer long. I have seen other yellow poplars in the neighborhood that have much fuller canopies and have just started to turn yellow. Mine is all yellow and brown and the leaves on the branches are scarce. I have noticed some of the leaves on the tree have small holes in them also. I want to save the tree, it is fully grown and has the potential to be beautiful. What should I do?
10/22/20085:40:12 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
For any definitive diagnosis I would definitely recommend having a professional out to look at the tree. If you go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ you can find an ISA Certified Arborist in your area. It sounds to me like you may have some kind of fungal disease causing premature leaf death and drop. Trees are more vulnerable to disease and insect attach if they are unhealthy. Prematurely yellow leaves may indicate a nitrogen deficiency. You also might check your watering regimen. Too much water or poor drainage can cause root disease which can manifest as a nitrogen deficiency. We sell a product called Sick Tree Treatment. It comes in 40 pound bags, each of which treats 1000 square feet. You'll want to treat the entire area under the dripline of the tree (the edge of the canopy). You can order it through our website. We also recommend mulching around the base of the tree. Going as far as the dripline is best, but at least 4-6' to a depth of at least 3" is highly recommended.
I live in the Atlanta, GA suburbs, and I have a yellow poplar in my front yard that has been dropping brown leaves all summer long. I have seen other yellow poplars in the neighborhood that have much fuller canopies and have just started to turn yellow. Mine is all yellow and brown and the leaves on the branches are scarce. I have noticed some of the leaves on the tree have small holes in them also. I want to save the tree, it is fully grown and has the potential to be beautiful. What should I do?
10/22/20083:31:07 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Sick Tree Treatment, Tree Questions
For any definitive diagnosis I would definitely recommend having a professional out to look at the tree. If you go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ you can find an ISA Certified Arborist in your area. It sounds to me like you may have some kind of fungal disease causing premature leaf death and drop. Trees are more vulnerable to disease and insect attach if they are unhealthy. Prematurely yellow leaves may indicate a nitrogen deficiency. You also might check your watering regimen. Too much water or poor drainage can cause root disease which can manifest as a nitrogen deficiency. We sell a product called Sick Tree Treatment. It comes in 40 pound bags, each of which treats 1000 square feet. You'll want to treat the entire area under the dripline of the tree (the edge of the canopy). You can order it through our website. We also recommend mulching around the base of the tree. Going as far as the dripline is best, but at least 4-6' to a depth of at least 3" is highly recommended.
Will NEEM oil control cabbage worms?
10/22/20081:30:36 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Yes, NEEM will kill worms.
Hi! i leave in Port St. Lucie Florida, and i have San Augustine grass in my yard , but my in my back yard the weed is kind of taking over i have all kind of weeds .So my question is what can i use to kill it?
10/22/20081:03:36 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
To control the weeds I would recommend spraying with a natural herbicide to kill the current growth. Garden-Ville sells a product called Natural Weed Killer that will do the job. You'll want to spray it on a warm, sunny day with not too much wind. It will kill any green it contacts, including grass, so be careful around anything you don't want to kill. Once you've killed the current growth you should spread a pre-emergent herbicide such as corn gluten meal and water it in to kill any weed seeds active in the top layer of soil. If you're seeding the lawn in the backyard you'll want to wait until the corn gluten meal has completely dissolved, at least a month depending on how much moisture the lawn is getting. If you're putting down sod you can do it immediately--the corn gluten is only toxic to germinating seeds.Long term control of the weeds will be accomplished by encouraging a healthy lawn. Don't kill the weeds until you're ready to replace them with grass. Annual topdressing in the fall with a half inch of compost will encourage thick growth.I have bare spots throughout my yards. No matter what I do I cannot seem to get any type grass to grow and if I do it quickly dies out. I have a LOT of oak trees. Also my flowers and scrubs will not grow. They don't die but they just sit there not growing or blooming. What can I do to get grass to grow and azelas plants?
10/22/20081:01:27 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Lawn Questions, Plant Questions, Tree Questions
It's hard to diagnose without seeing the property, but with that many oak trees you may have issues with shade. Most turf grasses require full or near full sun to thrive. The heavy shade under oaks is too much for most grass. Soil conditions, such as thin soil or poor drainage, can also affect the ability of grass to survive. These could also be affecting your shrubs and flowers. Always check the sun and water requirements whenever you buy a plant. Inappropriate conditions will keep it from thriving. Azaleas can tolerate some shade, but require acidic soil. Test the ph of your soil. If its too alkaline you can lower it by adding sulphur. Also talk to people at a nursery that stocks locally adapted plants. They'll be able to steer you towards plants that are shade tolerant and appropriate for your location.
How can I get rid of grassburs where there is not much grass and its ok, I can plant grass after I rid the grassburs, now that it is OCT.what do I need to do?
10/22/200812:58:12 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
This late in the season I would recommend mowing the grass burrs low. They aren't likely to grow back enough to be a problem before winter, and it's too late to start grass seed. When they start to grow in the spring spray them with a natural herbicide. Garden-Ville sells a product called Natural Weed Killer that will do the job. You'll want to spray it on a warm, sunny day with not too much wind. It will kill any green it contacts, including grass, so be careful around anything you don't want to kill. Once you've killed the current growth you can if you wish spread a pre-emergent herbicide such as corn gluten meal and water it in to kill any weed seeds active in the top layer of soil. If you're seeding the lawn in the backyard you'll want to wait until the corn gluten meal has completely dissolved, at least a month depending on how much moisture the lawn is getting. If you're putting down sod you can do it immediately--the corn gluten is only toxic to germinating seeds.
Long term control of the weeds will be accomplished by encouraging a healthy lawn. Don't kill the weeds until you're ready to replace them with grass. Annual topdressing in the fall with a half inch of compost will encourage thick growth.I have bare spots throughout my yards. No matter what I do I cannot seem to get any type grass to grow and if I do it quickly dies out. I have a LOT of oak trees. Also my flowers and scrubs will not grow. They don't die but they just sit there not growing or blooming. What can I do to get grass to grow and azelas plants?
10/22/200810:02:55 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Lawn Questions, Soil Questions
It's hard to diagnose without seeing the property, but with that many oak trees you may have issues with shade. Most turf grasses require full or near full sun to thrive. The heavy shade under oaks is too much for most grass. Soil conditions, such as thin soil or poor drainage, can also affect the ability of grass to survive. These could also be affecting your shrubs and flowers. Always check the sun and water requirements whenever you buy a plant. Inappropriate conditions will keep it from thriving. Azaleas can tolerate some shade, but require acidic soil. Test the ph of your soil. If its too alkaline you can lower it by adding sulphur. Also talk to people at a nursery that stocks locally adapted plants. They'll be able to steer you towards plants that are shade tolerant and appropriate for your location.
i leave in Port St. Lucie Florida, and i have San Augustine grass in my yard , but my in my back yard the weed is kind of taking over i have all kind of weeds .So my question is what can i use to kill it?
10/22/20089:47:19 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
To control the weeds I would recommend spraying with a natural herbicide to kill the current growth. Garden-Ville sells a product called Natural Weed Killer that will do the job. You'll want to spray it on a warm, sunny day with not too much wind. It will kill any green it contacts, including grass, so be careful around anything you don't want to kill. Once you've killed the current growth you should spread a pre-emergent herbicide such as corn gluten meal and water it in to kill any weed seeds active in the top layer of soil. If you're seeding the lawn in the backyard you'll want to wait until the corn gluten meal has completely dissolved, at least a month depending on how much moisture the lawn is getting. If you're putting down sod you can do it immediately--the corn gluten is only toxic to germinating seeds.Long term control of the weeds will be accomplished by encouraging a healthy lawn. Don't kill the weeds until you're ready to replace them with grass. Annual topdressing in the fall with a half inch of compost will encourage thick growth.We live in Art, the Hill Country, and a neighbor and I were talking about our radishes, beets, onions they come up but the are lanky and no bulbs form. I have even planted them deeper and still just the top grows, really big and pretty, but nothing but the tops to eat. Can you help?
10/15/20089:53:23 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
The first thing I would check is how appropriate are the different varieties to our region. Onions, for example, are classified as short or long day types. We're in a short to intermediate day length area, as our summer days don't get as long as further north. Radishes are classified according to the time of the year in which they do best. Make sure that you are planting appropriate varieties for our area, and that you are planting at the right time of year. Onion seeds should be planted right now for harvest next year, while if you're planting sets they shouldn't be planted until after the last frost date. Most of this information should be printed on the seed packet. Make sure the plants are getting regular adequate water. Onions in particular require a fair bit of water. Also make sure the soil is amended with plenty of compost and that they're being fed adequate amounts of organic, slow release fertilizer. Garden-Ville's Manure Compost is a great option for your garden. In the hill country it's a good idea to amend the soil with sulphur to lower ph and with greensand to add iron. We sell both of these products at our retail locations and online. Be sure not to give them too much nitrogen as this will tend to stimulate green leafy growth rather than root growth. The other key is patience. Onions planted from seed can take up to 200 days to be ready for harvest. Give your plants plenty of time to mature.
I live in the North Texas area and have a blooming crabapple tree in my front yard. It has done fairly well in the last couple of years. I have noticed mushrooms growing on it and spots on the trunk. They are not white but are a lighter color than the bark. Do you think I have a problem?
10/14/200810:17:23 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Sick Tree Treatment, Tree Questions
Anytime you have mushrooms growing on a tree it indicates a serious problem. Mushrooms are the fruiting body of fungi. The main part of the fungus is the mycelium, which is growing inside the wood. Different fungi have different specific effects on a tree, but many of them can seriously weaken or kill a tree. The mushroom is just the exterior sign.Fungi usually attack weak or stressed trees. I would recommend having a certified arborist out to inspect the tree and make treatment recommendations. An application of compost covered by mulch around the base of the tree to a diamater of at least 6' or the dripline (whichever is less) can be very helpful to a tree. We also sell a product called Sick Tree Treatment that is available for order from our website or at many of retailers who carry our products. They may also be able to order it for you. However, avoid any nitrogen fertilizers for the time being, as this can stimulate growth and inhibit the tree's defensive reaction. Make sure the tree is getting sufficient water but be very careful not to overwater. If you are experiencing average rainfall supplemental water shouldn't be necessary. In any event don't water more than once a week, deeply. Many fungal diseases thrive in overly wet conditions.I wanted to know if the red berries that are on a pine poisoness to a dog if he has eaten a couple of them?
10/14/20089:52:47 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
I'm not aware of any poisonous effect of pine seeds on animals. However, for any questions involving your pet's health you should always check first with your veterinarian, as they are more likely to know what's dangerous for animals.
do you need to put weed barrier under decomposed granite?
10/13/20084:11:02 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
We would definitely recommend putting down weed barrier under decomposed granite. Any existing weeds will grow up through the granite otherwise. We sell weed barrier at all of our retail locations.
do you need to put weed barrier under decomposed granite?
10/13/20084:10:54 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
We would definitely recommend putting down weed barrier under decomposed granite. Any existing weeds will grow up through the granite otherwise. We sell weed barrier at all of our retail locations.
I have zoysia established in my front yard and have what i think is some type of fungus or desease. Just the edges of the leaves are slightly brown. Some areas are not green and I can't help but think there wasn't enought good soil when grass was laid. There is no shade and this is fully exposed to the central Texas sun. Any suggestions???
10/13/20084:03:42 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Your problem could be one of a few things:1) Simple drought stress. Does the brown grass seem dead or just dormant? If the brown/dead grass is distributed evenly around the lawn this may be the problem.2) Some kind of fungal disease. Fungal problems show up more in late summer or early fall when grass is stressed from the hot, dry summer. These diseases can be controlled with a broadcast application of corn meal or compost. We sell the bags at our retail locations.3) Grubs. To check for grubs try pulling up some of the dead grass. If it comes up but doesn't have any roots then your problem is grubs, which can be controlled with beneficial nematodes. We sell them, although you should call ahead first as they aren't always in stock. You'll mix them with water and spray it on.4) Chinchbugs. Chinchbugs live at the margin of the dead and live grass. Take a can of some kind (coffee can, for example) with the bottom cut out and twist it into the ground about an inch deep right at the margin of the dead and live grass. Then fill it with water and wait a minute or two. The chinchbugs, if they are there, will be tiny black bugs that float to the top of the water. Chinchbugs can be controlled with an application of diatomaceous earth (in dry conditions only) and compost. The compost harbors a beneficial fungus that controls the chinchbugs.Regardless of the problem you should apply 1/2" of compost to the lawn, as this is great for buffering against drought stress, providing much needed nutrients, improving soil quality, and moderating soil temperatures.I have zoysia established in my front yard and have what i think is some type of fungus or desease. Just the edges of the leaves are slightly brown. Some areas are not green and I can't help but think there wasn't enought good soil when grass was laid. There is no shade and this is fully exposed to the central Texas sun. Any suggestions???
10/13/20084:03:16 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Your problem could be one of a few things:1) Simple drought stress. Does the brown grass seem dead or just dormant? If the brown/dead grass is distributed evenly around the lawn this may be the problem.2) Some kind of fungal disease. Fungal problems show up more in late summer or early fall when grass is stressed from the hot, dry summer. These diseases can be controlled with a broadcast application of corn meal or compost. We sell the bags at our retail locations.3) Grubs. To check for grubs try pulling up some of the dead grass. If it comes up but doesn't have any roots then your problem is grubs, which can be controlled with beneficial nematodes. We sell them, although you should call ahead first as they aren't always in stock. You'll mix them with water and spray it on.4) Chinchbugs. Chinchbugs live at the margin of the dead and live grass. Take a can of some kind (coffee can, for example) with the bottom cut out and twist it into the ground about an inch deep right at the margin of the dead and live grass. Then fill it with water and wait a minute or two. The chinchbugs, if they are there, will be tiny black bugs that float to the top of the water. Chinchbugs can be controlled with an application of diatomaceous earth (in dry conditions only) and compost. The compost harbors a beneficial fungus that controls the chinchbugs.Regardless of the problem you should apply 1/2" of compost to the lawn, as this is great for buffering against drought stress, providing much needed nutrients, improving soil quality, and moderating soil temperatures.What should we use on our St. Augustine as fall nears?
10/13/20081:52:13 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
This is the perfect time to apply fertilizer and compost. Our 7-2-2 fertilizer is formulated specifically for lawns. We also recommend 1/2" of our Premium Compost to improve the quality of the soil and the water retention for next year. You'll see a dramatic improvement in the lawn next year if you apply these right about now.
What should we use on our St. Augustine as fall nears?
10/13/20081:51:58 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
This is the perfect time to apply fertilizer and compost. Our 7-2-2 fertilizer is formulated specifically for lawns. We also recommend 1/2" of our Premium Compost to improve the quality of the soil and the water retention for next year. You'll see a dramatic improvement in the lawn next year if you apply these right about now.
When is it a good time to fertilizers my yard. I know around April but in the fall time I have know idea.
10/8/20089:22:11 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
September and October is the best time to fertilize your lawn in the fall. Apply a quarter to half inch layer of compost in the fall along with your fertilizer and you will reduce your watering, increase nutrient uptake and build the soil.
my soild Ph came in at 8.6 and Pete Moss was recommended. I have spread Pete Moss around an eight thick over my entire lawn--what else should i do. I understand the high pH is preventing the St Augustine from poicking up nutrients from the soil and that might explian why it looks dry, yellow and generaly unhealthy. Thanks
10/8/20089:00:45 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Add Soil Sulphur to correct excess alkalinity in the soil at a rate of 1-2 lbs. per 100 square feet. In high alkaline soil iron becomes tied up and you will see St Augustine start to yellow. If you look closely at the grass blade it will have vertical green veins, this is called iron chlorosis. An application of greensand at 10-20 lbs per 1000 square feet will supply the iron to your lawn. I would also apply a half inch to quarter inch layer of compost to your lawn. The compost will reduce your watering needs, make more nutrients available from your fertilizer and add as a food source for good fungus. Unfortunately, St Augustine in high alkaline soil and after Summer is a given to show iron chlorosis and fungal diseases. If you are living anywhere besides the costal plains I would compost your yard in the spring and fall along with an application of greensand.
Just recently put tif-419 sod and quickly got overrun with sod web worms got that under control but have a lot of dead spots. what should i do about the dead areas? will it fill back in ? do i need to replace the dead areas with new sod?
10/3/20083:02:37 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Your sod will fill back in. How long it takes will depend on how large the dead spots are. Any spots the size of a sod square or smaller probably aren't worth re-sodding. Anything significantly larger than that may take more than a season to fill in completely, so you might want to stick a new square in the middle of those areas to fill it in faster. The best way to encourage the lawn to fill in quickly is to keep it healthy. We recommend spreading a 1/2" layer of organic compost over the entire lawn area right now (during the fall) to promote a healthy lawn the following year. This increases organic material in the lawn, provides essential nutrients, builds soil, and reduces watering requirements because the soil has more water retaining capacity.
I HAVE A PINE TREE THAT I WAS TOLD HAS BLIGHT, HOW CAN, OR WHAT CAN I DO TO SAVE THE TREE. I APPEARS TO BE BURNING, NEEDLES ARE TURNING TAN COLOR, I KNOW WHEN THEY TAN THE NEEDLES ARE DONE, CAN IS SAVE THE GOOD ONES?
10/3/20082:54:26 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Sick Tree Treatment, Tree Questions
It's hard to give a specific diagnosis of the problem without being able to examine it in person and knowing the age and species of the tree. There are numerous kinds of blight. In general we recommend applying our Sick Tree Treatment around the tree at a rate of 10 pounds per 1000 square feet and mulching to a depth of 3-4" around the tree to the dripline. These are both very effective ways to bolster the tree's natural disease resistance. For more specific treatment options your best bet is to contact an ISA certified arborist to examine the tree and make recommendations. You can go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find an arborist in your area.I HAVE A PINE TREE THAT I WAS TOLD HAS BLIGHT, HOW CAN, OR WHAT CAN I DO TO SAVE THE TREE. I APPEARS TO BE BURNING, NEEDLES ARE TURNING TAN COLOR, I KNOW WHEN THEY TAN THE NEEDLES ARE DONE, CAN IS SAVE THE GOOD ONES?
10/3/20082:54:11 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Sick Tree Treatment, Tree Questions
It's hard to give a specific diagnosis of the problem without being able to examine it in person and knowing the age and species of the tree. There are numerous kinds of blight. In general we recommend applying our Sick Tree Treatment around the tree at a rate of 10 pounds per 1000 square feet and mulching to a depth of 3-4" around the tree to the dripline. These are both very effective ways to bolster the tree's natural disease resistance. For more specific treatment options your best bet is to contact an ISA certified arborist to examine the tree and make recommendations. You can go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find an arborist in your area.Can I use liquid fertilizer on acerage? If so how much to spray on 30 acres with how much H20. Cost and how do I get it?
10/3/20082:03:37 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Our liquid fertilizers are appropriate for any horticultural application. All of our liquid fertilizers are low analysis products. Sea Tea (2-3-2) has the most nitrogen of any of them. Garrett Juice is 0-2-1, while liquid seaweed is 0-0-1. All these products are rich in micronutrients, and the Sea Tea and Garrett Juice both have molasses, which encourages the growth of beneficial microorganisms. Foliar application on the Sea Tea is 2 oz per gallon of water. 1 gallon of concentrate treats 40,000 square feet, almost an acre. 33 gallons of Sea Tea would be necessary to cover 30 acres. You can have it shipped or can come by one of our retail locations in San Antonio, San Marcos, or Austin (the Austin store that stocks our products is called Eco-Depot). The cost if you order online is $18.65 per gallon plus shipping. Let us know if we can be any more assistance.
I'm on an acre, which gets irrigation every two weeks, I have (12) 60 ft Eldarica Pines, I've noticed the pines needles are weak, you pull and they just come right off, when before you had to tug to come off, the tips are brown, and the limbs are starting to droop over when they should be straight out. Maybe too much water. This year I also notice the grass was not very lush and alot of dry spots, but I thought we had more weeds this year. Help, I love my trees. I'm really concerned.
10/3/200812:39:55 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
I hate to say it, but in Texas the typical life span of an Eldarica Pine is 15-20 years. If you want to try and extend their lifespan by a couple of years you could try mulching around the trunk and spreading our Sick Tree Treatment, but at best you're going to keep them alive for another couple of years, and I wouldn't recommend this course of action. Any plant, whether a tree or tomato, has a natural life span, and trying to keep it going beyond that becomes increasingly futile. What I would do is go ahead and plant replacement trees. The Eldaricas will likely be dead by next year, but its possible they might have another year or two in them, and planting replacements now means you won't be without trees in that area. Hope this helps, and I'm sorry about your trees. Let us know if we can offer any further advice.
For the summer I put some of my plants outside and now that fall is here I will be taking them in, in the past when I have done this, I seem to bring in knats -- is there a way to get rid of them before I bring the plants in?
10/3/200811:32:49 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
The gnats are probably living and laying their eggs in the soil of the plants. We sell a product called Anti-Fuego that is usually used to control fire ants but that will also kill any other soil-based insect. You'll use the Anti-Fuego diluted at a rate of 4-6 oz per gallon of water. Drench the soil with this mixture before you bring the plants inside. That should control the gnats.
I have a large cedar tree in my front yard. about 1/3 of the branches are turning brown. What can you suggest?
10/3/200811:17:47 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Sick Tree Treatment, Tree Questions
In general for trees that are showing signs of poor health we recommend mulching around the tree to a depth of 3"-4" at least 6' out from the tree, preferably as far as the dripline. We sell a product called Sick Tree Treatment that is extremely helpful to trees in stress or decline. You can spread this around the tree to a few feet beyond the dripline.As far as the specific condition affecting your tree, it's hard to diagnose without more information. How are the dead branches distributed in the tree? Is it the tips of all the branches, or a few major branches in one area of the tree? If you send us some pictures, both some closeups of the affected foliage and some wide shots of the whole tree crown we might be able to identify the problem.Is cedar mulch OK for tomato plants and/or for citrus fruits such as satsumas?
10/3/200811:01:28 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Cedar mulch is a great product and will be fine to use on any vegetables or trees you want to grow. It even has some insect-deterring qualities because of the strong scent. We sell double shredded cedar mulch pre-bagged or in bulk, and can have it delivered to your location if you need a larger quanity than you can conveniently transport yourself.
I recently purchased a home and the grass is horrible.1) It has St. Aug. in some patches but the rest is weeds What do you recommend I Do? 2) I have a area that had a bunch of rocks&sand for a fountain that I pulled out. I'm planning on laying squares of St. Aug. What advise can you give me on this project?
10/3/200810:40:56 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
If you are located here in central Texas I wouldn't recommend St. Augustine, as it requires a great deal of water. It also doesn't do well in our full sun. Buffalo grass and Zyosia are two good options for this area. Even Bermuda would be better than St. Augustine.Your first priority should be to control the weeds. Broadcast corn gluten meal right about now for pre-emergent control. Next spring after the last frost date, then go through with our natural weed killer or a 20% vinegar solution and spray any remaining weeds. Let them die, then mow it down. If your soil is poor, which it sounds like it is, you'll want to put down some soil. 4"-6" is the recommend soil depth for a healthy lawn. Depending on your current soil you probably won't need to put down that much. Lay down sod squares or broadcast seed directly into this, then spread a very thin layer of compost over that. Either option will need to be watered regularly until established. In the fall broadcast another 1/2" of compost into the lawn. This will provide needed nutrients to the grass, improve your soil, and increase the water holding capactiy of the lawn, thereby reducing the need for water the following season. We recommend this every fall to maintain a healthy lawn.How many yards of loose mulch do i need to cover 10000 sqft area about 2". Thank you
10/1/200811:32:21 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
62 cubic yard is needed to mulch a 10,000 sq.ft. area 2 inches deep.
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