Ask The Expert
Our knowledgeable staff here at Garden-Ville are available to answer many of the questions you might have about gardens, landscaping, and trees. Many problems with plants, however, cannot be responsibly diagnosed other than in person. We're located in central Texas and may not be familiar with the details of gardening in very different climate or soil zones. One of the guiding principles of organic growing is adapting methods to the particularites of local soil and climate. With that in mind we'll do our best to answer your question, but if we can't we'll be happy to help you find the appropriate resources or professionals in your area.
Feel free to browse the topics below to see if we've already answered a question similar to yours. If you can't find the information you need, the question submission form is located at the bottom of the page.
Isn't Sulfur a fungicide? I thought all you really needed is to improve the soil fertility via biological activities such as fungi, microbes, earthworms, etc not destroy soil biology. Sulfur is fungicide, you know?
3/11/20098:23:28 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Sulfur is a fungicide and is useful for controlling many foliar diseases. When intended for this purpose it is sold as dusting sulfur and is in a powdered form. Sulfur is also an essential plant nutrient and a component in some amount or another of all soils. In addition it is a good way of lowering the ph of alkaline soils. As in all things you should be mindful of how much you put down. 5 pounds per 1000 square feet is a good basic rule. I would also be sure to use soil rather than dusting sulfur, since the former will release more slowly and be less likely to overwhelm beneficial fungi in the soil. The presence of sulfur, however, is not going to kill all your soil fungi.
Sulfur dust is harmful when inhaled, so be sure and wear a mask when working with sulfur in conditions that are likely to expose you to the dust.I attended a seminar Malcolm presented a few months back at The Gardens of The American Rose Center here in Shreveport. If I recall correctly, Malcolm stated that Liquid Molasses could be used to kill fire ants. I believe he said that you poke a hole in the center of the mound and gently pour a mixture of water and molasses down the hole to kill the ants. Is this correct? Also what is the ratio of mixture you use to make the solution. I'm teach a gardening class for my church, and people are very interested to know if this works.
2/8/200911:30:25 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Liquid molasses can be used to repel ants in the way you describe. The molasses stimulates the growth of microorganisms that the ants don't like, although it doesn't necessarily kill them. Molasses alone is more useful in preventing them from using a particular area. We also sell a product called Anti Fuego, made of molasses, orange oil, water, phosphoric acid, urea, and humate. It works even better than molasses alone. The other ingredients have some insecticidal properties, so when used in conjunction with the molasses they are very effective in treating existing ant infestations and preventing new ones.
I planted a live oak about 2 years ago that was about 7 feet tall. I have left the lower four branches (about 4 feet from the ground) and all are growing in an upward position. The tree is doing very well in that it is now about 18 feet tall and the main trunk has increased in size. When, and should I cut the bottom branches off? Its natural growth at the top is excellent. I am concerned if I cut the bottom branches off that it will disturb the fast growth and natural lines of the branches at the top..Thank you for your help.
1/27/200912:38:56 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
You can remove 1/10th of the foliage in a given growing season without any harm to the tree. Branches 4' from the ground would typically be removed sooner or later, although there's no imperative to do so. You can remove them once removal wouldn't involve a major loss of canopy. Taking off the bottom branches will tend to increase growth at the top of the tree rather than restricting it.One consideration is the diameter off the branch being removed relative to the trunk or branch it attaches to. You shouldn't remove branches that are more than 50% the diameter of the parent branch or trunk. Doing so produces wounds that the tree has difficulty callusing over. As an example of this, if the trunk is 6" thick at the point of removal the branch being removed should be no more than 3". If the branch to be removed is more than 50% you should instead prune the end of the branch, removing more than half of its foliage. This will stunt the growth of the branch in subsequent seasons relative to the trunk. Eventually it will meet the necessary ratio for removal.Cuts should be made at an angle away from the trunk, taking care not to damage any of the trunk tissue that overlaps at the base of the branch.If you live in an area where oak wilt is a threat you should immediately paint any cuts (black spray paint is fine) to prevent infestation by the beetles that spread the disease.We are putting Zorro Bermuda grass around our new home. We live in SC. How often should I fertilize and what should I use? When should I put down weed preventer? Any other treatments needed and when?
1/16/20099:02:47 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Fertilize with an organic fertilizer and spread a 1/4" to 1/2" layer of compost at least once a year, although you can do it twice. If once a year apply in the fall; if twice then apply in fall and spring. Since you've just seeded I'd do it in spring and fall of this year, then annually after that. I'd recommend our 7-2-2 lawn fertilizer applied at a rate of 10 pounds per 1000 square feet. You can order it from our website. Any organic compost will suffice. For weed control we recommend corn gluten meal applied in spring and fall at a rate of 40 pounds per 2500 square feet. This will prevent germination of weed seeds. Be sure not to apply this if you have Bermuda seed waiting to germinate, as it will keep grass from growing as well. It has no effect on established grass.
What is the quickiest way to add the micronutrient iron to a compost heap or garden?
1/12/200910:48:31 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
We sell a product called Greensand that is 17% iron. Unlike some other iron sources the iron in greensand won't leach out with watering but will remain available until the plants take it up. You can add this either directly to the soil or compost. If you have an alkaline soil you'll want to add sulphur when you add the greensand, as too high a ph can interfere with iron uptake.
I have a neighbor who urinates on a Live Oak tree in the backyard on a regular basis ( atleast twice a day ). Does this harm the health of the tree in any way ? If so, what is the effect ?
1/12/200910:31:37 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Urinating on the tree is not going to have any negative consequences for the tree. It actually adds nitrogen to the soil, which is one of the most important plant nutrients. Undiluted urine can burn grass, however, so if your neighbor is going in the same place you may notice dead grass around the spot. Also, if your neighbor is actually going on the trunk the benefits are going to be reduced. Most of the feeder roots are out further away, towards the dripline.
We have a huge native pecan tree in our backyard in Austin, Texas that shades the entire year. It is about 75 feet tall. We are currently in a drought and we do not water regularly around the tree nor do we fertilize regularly. There does not seem to be a visual bad effects from this neglect but should we start caring for the tree more actively? They produce nuts every other year and are small but tasty.
1/5/20099:51:59 AM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Most of the time people are prone to overwatering rather than underwatering. However, in the current drought it might not be a bad idea to water very occasionally to make sure the tree survives, especially if it is an old and valuable tree. Water deeply (slow drip applied over a number of hours) at or near the dripline of the tree. Most of the feeder roots are located out away from the trunk. Do this no more than once a month.Mulching around the tree to a depth of 3"-4" is the single best thing you can do to promote tree health. This will moderate soil temperatures, help prevent soil compaction, and help greatly with water retention. Mulch should not come into contact with the trunk. Mulch as far out as you are willing to go--as far as the dripline is best.A regular fertilization program is helpful to maximize productivity on any fruit or nut tree. A helpful article is located at http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=1957.
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